All pictures on this website are the property of Nick Peeff and cannot be used without his permission.

I wouldn't consider myself to be an expert photographer since I've only been doing it for about 8 years and mainly focus on waterfalls. However, I've read some books and found information on the internet about the subject. I've read my camera's instruction manual to learn what all the buttons and functions do. I purchased a Minolta Maxxum 5 SLR camera in 2002 until I decided to upgrade to a Maxxum 7D digital SLR in 2005. I've purchased a Tamaron 28-200 mm 3.8-5.6 AS XR Macro lens, a Sigma 20-40 mm 2.8-4.0 DG AF lens and a Minolta AF17-35 2.8-4.0 D lens to use with my cameras. I've also purchased filters for each lens because they're all different sizes. I have a UV, Skylight, Circular Polarizer and a Neutral Density filters. In addition, I recently purchased a Bogen Manfrotto tripod for backpackers, but even if you have all the right equipment and knowledge for shooting waterfall photos, the weather conditions still play a major factor as to how your pictures come out. If it's a windy day, branches and leaves will look blurry after you take a picture. I wish everyday was mostly cloudy, but numerous times the sun is right above the waterfall when I'm trying to take a picture.

You can wait for a passing cloud to cover it and use a lens hood. Also use a Circular Polarizer (increases color saturation and reduces light by 1.3 to 1.8 of an f-stop) or a Neutral Density filter (reduces light by 1 to even 6 f-stops depending on the filter you purchase), but other times your picture will look washed out. Sometimes, you just try your best and hopefully the sun will be behind you on the next waterfall you visit. Some nature photographers like shooting in a light rain with an umbrella so the wet leaves and rocks make the foreground of a picture look more rich. Just remember, the footing is slick, your shoes will get muddy and you don't want to get your camera wet. When I first started taking pictures, I thought using a tripod was a hassle, but if you want to photograph waterfalls using a slow shutter speed (1 to 4 seconds) to give the water that silky artistic appearance, a tripod will reduce camera shake and make your pictures look more focused. I also watch the aperture to get the F-stop to 22 or higher for greater depth of field and overall sharpness. If you have a lens that's slower than a 2.8, you might want to try lower F-stops like 11 to 16. Sometimes, your view of a waterfall is limited and a tripod isn't very practical, so I just use the auto feature on the camera. Because of experience and a recent desire for perfection, my earlier photos obviously don't look as decent as my more recent 2006 and above waterfall pictures. I just included them on my site to show people the number of waterfalls I've visited and give visitors an idea what they look like. Anyways, practice makes perfect!

Here's the abbreviations for the camera I used to take a certain picture:

CAN - Canon sure shot 38-60 point and shoot

MAX5 - Minolta Maxxum 5 SLR

MAX7D Minolta Maxxum 7 Digital SLR  

CAN7D - Canon 7 Digital SLR (Purchased 2010)

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